Discover Kazakhstan: "Beshbarmak" one dish, many stories

Physicists once debated whether an outside observer could understand the structure of the universe based on just a single atom. The answer to this question will be something like this: on the basis of one atom, a lot, if not everything, about our cosmos can be understood.

The same applies to Beshbarmak. Just as we see the reflection of the world around us in a drop of water, we can observe different aspects of the lifestyle of a nomadic people in this one national dish.

Beshbarmak (or besparmak) is a word of Turkic origin meaning "five fingers". This means eating with your hands, without spoons, forks and knives. However, in 2003, the Department for the Development of the State Language in Astana refused to register a restaurant called Beshbarmachnaya (roughly "Beshbarmak's House"). There was even a court case where several invited philologists and doctors of science claimed that the word Beshbarmak is not Kazakh, but a foreign loan. Thus, they suggested that it is inappropriate to use it as a proper name for a traditional Kazakh dish. Instead, it should be called et asy (meat treats) or simply et (meat). Despite its controversial name, we use Beshbarmak here because it speaks to a broader pan-Turkic and ancient Asian culinary heritage.

Main ingredients

Traditionally, Beshbarmak was a nomadic luxury item reserved for special occasions. The ingredients reflect that. Wheat for dough had to be bought and transported, unlike meat and milk, which were easily available in the steppe. The dish also required a cauldron, a rare and valuable item that was often passed down from generation to generation.

1. Meat (Et) : Horse meat is traditional, although lamb and sausages such as kazy and shuzhik are also popular today .
2. Dough (Jaima) : a dough made of wheat flour, often with eggs, rolled out thinly and cooked.
3 . Broth (Sorpa) : Strained meat broth used to season a dish.
4. Dressing (Tuzdyk) : herbs stewed in broth, traditionally wild onions, now often replaced by onions and garlic.
5 . Curt : A salty, dried cheese, important for digesting large amounts of meat.

Beshbarmak ritual

Beshbarmak is more than a dish; it is a ceremonial experience. Tea accompanies food, and young children often pour it. Guests are seated together, with a hierarchy reflected in the distribution of meat. The senior or most honored guest sits at the torus, the highest place at the table.

The meat, cut into pieces, is served on various dishes, for example, bas tabak (a large plate) for older guests and kiz tabak (a plate for unmarried girls). Each portion has a certain meaning. The host blesses the feast, and the meal unfolds with conversation and shared enjoyment that often lasts for hours.

Beshbarmak tradition has been preserved in modern Kazakhstan. Whether in rural yurts or in city houses, families keep the right cuts of meat ready for unexpected visits from guests.

Basic Beshbarmak recipe

Begin by cooking raw meat (beef, lamb, or both) in cold water over low heat for three to four hours. 30 minutes before readiness, add dried or smoked meat and sausages (goat, shuzhik). For the dough, mix 200 grams of wheat flour with one egg and three to four grams of salt. Add pumpkin puree for color if desired. Roll out the dough thinly and boil in the broth for two minutes. Cut jusai (wild onion) or onion into rings, add a little broth and cook for about two minutes. Add grated kurt (dried salty cheese) to the mixture. Put the finished dough on a plate, put the meat on top, cover it with salt. Serve with soup in small jugs or cups, adding grated kurt to the broth if desired.

Bon appetit or, as we say in Kazakhstan, as bolsin!